Samurai Perfume Company Talcum

Ok, this might not be Japanese, but this is the kind of stuff I like collecting and it has dual meaning to me. First off I inherited it from my Grandfather who was an avid collector of absolutely anything (might be where I got my antiques virus from) and it also shows how Eastern crazed the West was at the turn of the Twentieth century.

I can't find any information for this item anywhere, but I can at least tell you what it states on the canister. The Samurai Perfume Co. was based in Newburgh, New York, which during the late 1800's was quite an industrial hub (so much so that it is actually the first American city to be electrified and had the first electric street lights). This product was first registered under the Food and Drug Act on June 30, 1906. Reg. No. 10,168. This tin can be dated to 1914 due to the two IRS tax stamps affixed to the label, one for 3/8ths of a cent and the other for 1/4 of a cent. There is some Kanji on the label but my reading is rusty and can't make out more than a few characters. Also, there are a lot of Japanese style imagery that may or may not be actual historical motifs and I haven't had the time to try and decipher them. In any case, I don't care, I just love the thing. If anyone out there knows about this stuff please let me know.

Here are a few close ups so you can check out the coolness for yourself.

Kyodai (Mirror Chest)

Hisashiburi ne! It's been a while hasn't it. Got a job as a cabinetmaker again, I guess I just can't keep away from wood. But, it's been keeping me away from this site, so it's time to rectify that.

I couldn't help but show you this kyodai that's up for auction, since I previously posted an earlier style here with a more complete description. As you can see, this piece has the later square western style mirror as well as the highly figured wood. These began to be used in kyodai pieces after Sakoku, Japan's exclusionary acts, were forcibly lifted in 1853 by Commodore Perry's gunboat diplomacy. The listing states that this is made with keyaki (elm), but I think it looks more like kuwa (mulberry). Also, listed as 19th century, but it could be as late as early 20th. Handles look like they have been replaced with more modern hardware. Cool, none the less.

Meiji era Gyosho Bako (Peddler's Chest)

Imagine that it's the late 1800's, your an itinerant salesman, and you see a burgeoning market in small farming villages and also in the post towns along one of the five main traveling routes (the go-kaido), like the famous Tōkaidō road, or the Nakasendō. Now imagine that you need to carry your goods with you. What are you going to use? Luckily there is an answer to this dilemma; you would strap a nice gyosho bako to your back and march out there to prosperity.








Now obviously, depending on what you are selling, these chests could be very cumbersome. So to keep weight down you would choose a light weight wood in their construction, maybe some kiri (paulownia) or some sugi (cedar) would be prudent. And you might want to keep it simple and coat it with just some wiped laquer; its inexpensive and easy to repair. You definitely would also choose to keep the iron work to a minimum, that is, unless you were a metalsmith and needed to show off your best work. In terms of design, you had an infinite number of variations. One door, two doors, hinged or maybe drop-fit, and with as many drawers as necessary. Tall and narrow or short and squat, it's up to you. Only one question remains, what product are you going to choose to make your destiny manifest?

Pictured is an 1880 circa gyosho bako made from hinoki (cypress) and sugi (cedar). As for the hardware, handles are in the warabite (bracken hand) style and the jomae (lockplates), with double kikuza-tegakejo (floriate button) latches, are nice and utilitarian. Two aspects of this piece I find interesting are the kendan buta (drop fit) doors and the two thicker strips of wood used for adding strength to the back where the straps are attached, I hadn't seen that before. I don't know about you, but I think I would hate to strap one of these on my back. That being said, I still think they are great, and historically, important as well. Definitely shows how Japan went from a totally agrarian economy during feudal times, to a more industrious one as the Shogunate's grasp of the economy began to break down.

Cha Dansu (Tea Utensil Chest)

There are alot of nice tansu up for auction right now, so I might be posting alot about the ones that I find interesting. Here is one of them, a cha dansu from the Taisho era.

What I like about cha dansu is that some of them have chigai dana (staggered shelves), which I aesthetically love. As a big fan of architecture, I really like the Tokonoma (literally meaning bed-space), a distinct display area that evolved as an aspect of Shoin style architecture during the Muromachi period. The one side of the tokonoma held a hanging scroll and maybe some ikebana (flower arrangement), while the other side consisted of some storage space with built in cabinets and also some chigai dana. Cha dansu borrowed the chigai dana as a way to display some of the tea ceremony materials during the late Edo era.

This piece is constructed with keyaki, sugi, and hinoki, with two sets of hiki-do (sliding doors) and one kendan buta (drop fit door), fairly typical of the style. Another familiar trait is the lack of lockplates. This type of furniture was used during the offering of tea, which was a normal everyday hospitality for guests. If you had a little money, you might possess a cha dansu to add a little class to this polite exchange. What a nice way to display and store all your tea utensils.

Kanzashi (Hair Ornaments)

You've all seen the Geisha running around in the movies with all sorts of ornaments in their hair, well one type are called kanzashi. I'm not an authority, but I might be able to extract some information out of the dark recesses of my grey matter to share with you.

At left we have a Bira bira style Kanzashi made out of tortoise shell. Bira bira means fluttering, which describes the dangling parts of the hair pin, and this type of kanzashi was traditionally worn by a Maiko (apprentice geisha). Kanzashi styles and the placement thereof were indicative of the status of the geisha, so a learned patron could always tell what level of geisha he was being entertained by. At around 42 minutes into the movie, Memoirs of a Geisha, you can see the character, Pumpkin, wearing two kanzashi, which shows that she is a junior Maiko. Also the material of the kanzashi could indicate what time of year it was seasonally. A tortoise shell kanzashi, like this one, was worn in the winter months.



Next up we have a kushi (comb) style kanzashi also made out of tortoise shell. This style is meant to stick in a hair bun and was made wide so that the artist had a lot of room to decorate them. This one is basically a carved relief which allows the natural translucency of the material to show, truth in natural materials being an always desired element in Japanese design. Other types of kushi kanzashi could be made out of other types of shell, or maybe wood, which was laquered and decorated with inlays, or maybe just simply gilded.

As with most of the pictures I post, you can click on them and see the original listing and find more photographs, as well as more information. Enjoy.